Kosmeetikatoodete tähendus Eesti linnanaiste jaoks - tänase ja nõukogudeaegse tarbimise käsitlused
Date
2006
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Abstract
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The title of current Bachelor thesis is: „The meaning of cosmetics for Estonian urban women–
discussion of today’s and Soviet times consumption”. The objective of current research thesis
was to examine how Estonian urban women apprehend the consumption of cosmetics, what
kind of remembrances concerning cosmetics consumption they have from Soviet times and
how these interact with nowadays. As current research focuses on cosmetics consumption in
the frames of consumption culture, it correlates well with Annikky Lamp´s Bachelor thesis on
body perception subjects of Estonian young urban women.
The chapter of theoretical and empirical basis of current research gives comparing overview
about modern and Soviet consumption culture. It brings on the main distinctions between
western and Soviet times cosmetics consumption culture. This chapter also gives brief
overview about brand perception of different theorists, expands upon cosmetics brands, brand
commitment to cosmetics products and cosmetics involvement. A short introduction is given
here concerning history, modern manufacturing trends, brands` marketing communication and
Soviet legacy influence to one of the biggest Estonian cosmetics manufacturer Orto. Orto
brand was examined in the frames of current research because Orto can be considered as a
bridge between modern and Soviet times cosmetics consumption. Examination of this brand
hereby enabled better comprehension of modern and Soviet times cosmetics consumption.
In dissection of abovementioned topics studies of different western theorists (e.g. Baudrillard,
Slater, Myers, Arnold, Holt) were drawn on. Earlier studies of cosmetics carried out in post-
socialistic states and publications on consumption culture composed in Tartu University were
also used as sources.
Four questions were hypothesized in current study to answer: 1. How Estonian urban women
apprehend cosmetics consumption?; 2. What meaning have brands for Estonian urban women
in context of cosmetics consumption?; 3. What kind of remembrances concerning cosmetics
consumption Estonian urban women have from Soviet times and how these interact with
modern time?; 4. How Estonian urban women interpret the brand Orto?.
For answering research questions qualitative approach was used. Study subjects of current
research were Estonian urban women. For comparison if women in different age groups apprehend research topics differently, semi-structured in-depth interview were carried out
with four women at the age of 30-45; two women younger than 30 and two women older than
45. For analysing interviews qualitative content analysis method was used, which based
mainly on Miles and Huberman principles.
The analysis of interviews showed that Estonian urban women have generally adapted with
western cosmetics consumption habits and cosmetics has became inseparable part of their
everyday life. Cosmetics products consumption is tightly connected with consumption and
cosmetics usage in certain level is considered elementary. Cosmetics are used because it gives
a good feeling, self-engagement gives pleasure but at the same time expectations of society
are clearly perceived. In cosmetics products usage it is mainly considered if the user is in
private or public sphere. Public sphere imposes more strict requirements to cosmetics usage.
For Estonian urban women important value connected with cosmetics products is beauty and
youth. Only women under the age of 30 did not stress the importance of youth. It was
probably because for them youth does not have deficiency value. The comprehension that if a
woman wishes to be beautiful and preserve her youthful looks, she has necessarily use
cosmetics and various services connected with cosmetics (cosmetician, hairstylist, manicure,
pedicure) was stressed.
The most important factor in buying cosmetics products are brand use-values but brand sign-
values are also perceived. Cosmetics brands sign-values are appreciated more by younger
(under the age of 45) women. These values are clearly recognised at more expensive brands.
Some women are attached with certain cosmetics brands to which they are loyal already for
years. They claim that they would use their favourite brand even if its price would rise
somewhat.
Majority of interviewed women used cosmetics products in Soviet times also. When
discussing about todays and Soviet times cosmetics consumption, Soviet times social capital
and modern economic and (consumer) cultural capital importance opposite clearly.
Interviewees found that nowadays women who use cosmetics are more appreciated than in
Soviet times. Beauty discourse has became more strict than in Soviet times and cosmetics are
tools that woman has to use necessarily for meeting the current norms and value judgements
of nowadays society.
In the interviewees opinion in Soviet times the quality of cosmetics product was guaranteed
by its foreign origin. Although today that comprehension is changed concerning a lot of
products (e.g. food, clothing) foreign cosmetics are still preferred to domestic. In other words,
in case of cosmetics the Soviet times stereotype “foreign is better” still manifests clearly.
In case of Orto brand it is discerned that Soviet legacy still exists in consciousness of
interviewed women and interferes somehow cosmetics products positive acceptance. All
women who associated Orto and its line brand Puhas Loodus assured it. Although the
products of Orto are used and brand’s quality and price ratio is found be generally good,
women tend to think that Orto’s products to not avoid for example ageing indications. Foreign
products are preferred to Orto’s cosmetics also because these are more advertised and
packagings of foreign products are more attractive.
As cosmetics today are profoundly industrial and assume certain know-how (e.g. marketing
knowledge also) it seems that in consumers opinion in cosmetics products category Estonian
producers does not have such know-how enough yet.
To summarise it could be said that current research gives opportunity to get closer to
comprehension which meanings had appearance themes in Soviet times and which meanings
have these subjects nowadays for Estonian urban women. It also clarifies the reasons why
women tend to use different cosmetics.
In future studies concerning cosmetics and body thematic countryside women and men
attitude concerning appearance should also be evaluated. Likewisely women who do not use
cosmetics products should be involved to research. When studying appearance subjects
additionally to consumption culture theory other theoretical approaches could be considered
also.
Keywords
H Social Sciences (General), bakalaureusetööd